Axminster HBS350N Operations Instructions Page 22

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Operating Instructions
22
do not try to cut a 1” radius curve using a 5/8” blade.
8. Make sure the blade is not in contact with the
material when you start the saw. Start the cutting
operation. Do not try to cut too quickly; the correct
cutting speed, if one could be so precise, would never
see the blade pushed back against the thrust
be aring, the saw would cut and clear the saw line at
the rate the work piece was fed into it. If you notice
that you require more and more pressure to effect
the cut, and the blade is in continual contact with
the thrust bearing, the chances are the blade is
becoming blunt. Check and change if necessary.
Do not let go of the work piece, if you have to
change your grip, make sure one hand is holding
the material at all times.
9. If you are cutting long pieces of material think
about sawing cutouts (i.e. a saw cut from the edge
of the material to the saw line) along the saw line
so that you can discard the off cuts as you progress
down the saw line.
10. Observe the old woodworkers’ adage of never
allowing your hand/fingers within one handbreadth
of the blade.
11. If you have to cut very small pieces of material,
arrange or manufacture some form of ‘shoe’ to carry
the timber. If the work piece is exceptionally small,
find something to use as a sacrificial carrier and
mount the work piece on it with double sided tape,
or similar.
12. Remember to check the blade tension after a new
blade has been working’ for 30-60 mins. The blade
will ‘stretch slightly when new.
13. Do not release the tension on the saw blade
when work is complete. The blades and the main saw
frame do not respond kindly to constant changes in
stress and tension. Only release the tension to change
the blade or if the blade is to be removed because
the machine is to be ‘mothballed’ for a lengthy time
period. The blade in tension over a long period of
non-use will cause the tyres to develop ‘flat spot.
Open the saw cut, either by pulling apart or driving a
wedge in close to the back of the blade. Try to
wriggle the blade free of the saw. If this is not
possible; check that the saw is free in the cut, start
the saw, allow it to run up to speed and cut out as
quickly as possible. The removal of the ‘off cut’ may
well prevent the saw jamming again if you resume
the original cut).
DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM
THE MAINS SUPPLY!
Put the table back to the level position if it has been
tilted. Set the upper blade guide assembly
approximately midway in the throat. Open the top
and bottom covering doors. Remove the table insert.
Remove the table stabilising bolt, slacken the blade
tension by turning the blade tensioning wheel
anti-clockwise, until the blade can be easily slipped
off the wheels. Remove the blade carefully, “wiggling”
it clear of the upper blade guard and through the
plastic lower blade guard and out through the slot in
the table.
WARNING! BE VERY CAUTIOUS
WHEN YOU “UNFOLD” THE BLADE;
IT TENDS TO ‘SPRING’ OPEN, BLADE
AND TEETH GOING EVERYWHERE.
NOW is an excellent time to clean out the interior of
the machine; remove the impacted crud’ from the
tyres, apply a little light oil to the screw threads of
the blade and drive belt tensioners and the tracking
control. The pivots and the slides of the top wheel
mounting assembly and the captive stub axle of
the drive belt tensioner in its slot could likewise be
lightly oiled. If you are fitting a new blade, it will have
been supplied to you “folded”, bound together in this
configuration with tape or tie wrap.
Changing the Saw Blade
WARNING! IF THE SAW JAMS!
SWITCH OFF IMMEDIATELY.
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